San Caprasio

Having arrived three days ago in the suburbs of Zaragoza, we prepare early in the morning to cross the Los Monegros desert. We were under the spell of the Las Bardenas Réales desert last summer and we couldn't wait to discover this new place still unknown to tourists.

Located about a hundred kilometers south of the Pyrenees, between Huesca and Zaragoza, Los Monegros are close to our return trajectory. Formerly, ancient pine and fir forests covered a large part of this 2,700 km² region, hence its name “montes negros”, which could be translated as black mountains..

The adventure begin

This region, we knew, deserves a detour because it is very special and does not correspond to the very archetype of the desert with its 49 villages. Its nature is rather green in the north, abundantly watered in the south by a major irrigation canal. The “tozales”, rock formations of multiple colors, are a curiosity.

After about fifty kilometers from Zaragoza, on the road to Valfarta the place is as if asleep. Stopping on the lower side, we scan the map in order to do a topographical reconnaissance and find the highest mountains that surround us for potential beautiful panoramas. Still no one around us... just a soothing silence, sometimes punctuated by just the stray crickets chirping around "I'm here, I'm there" to possible equally lost neighbors. As the start of the route, we choose the hermitage of San Caprasio, at 834 m above sea level, the highest point of the Los Monegros desert. Once the "Roulotte" has been unhitched behind an old abandoned sheepfold, well out of sight, we set off prospecting as usual.

Freeze frame

As we pass through the quiet village of Lanaja, we hear strange noises, like clappers through the closed windows of the vehicle. Trying to determine where the sounds are coming from, I turn my head from left to right; Nothing ! The clicking noises become more and more distinct as we progress towards the historic center of the town. This time, I raise my head and there, before my astonished eyes, I see dozens of storks who have taken up residence, perched on the roof of the church. It was their crunching that awakened my senses. “Jean-Paul, quickly, quickly, let’s park! The nests are huge and will certainly interest our visitors,” I told him, ready to dismount.
Listen to: The song of storks version 2017

Start of the track

After a few snapshots, we hit the road again, checking the GPS. The hermitage is 30 km away. We soon arrive on a trail. On either side, young inches of winter wheat cover the poor soil of the plots. The almond trees, already in flower in February, decorate the landscape with white and fragrant touches. We drive carefully, always on our guard. The tractors can roll out at any time, we believe, but wrongly, because this track is rarely used and only leads to a small part of the world that is very little coveted. However, the track is narrow, two vehicles do not pass at the same time so caution is still required. The laces will get lost in a coniferous forest.

Many sheepfolds, unfortunately abandoned on our route, recall the era of great transhumance in the last century. However, it is not uncommon to still meet shepherds today, but be careful not to get too close to the flocks of sheep otherwise we risk suffering the wrath of their faithful companions, the patous.

Hermitage of San Caprasio

In the distance, a weather antenna is clearly visible. We wonder if this is the highest point in Los Monegros. Despite the doubt, we continue our route and cross a pine forest; to our right an impressive slope overlooks a good part of the Ebro valley, shaped 40 million years ago. Here, as elsewhere in the desert, the mountains have eroded over the centuries, drought and pastures have accentuated the process of desertification. On the slopes of the mountains the pines sprinkle the whitish rockery.

It is on the heights that the forest becomes denser, where the scent of conifers tickles our nostrils. We decide to leave the car and enjoy the panorama.
Jean-Paul has already disappeared from my sight in search of the clearest possible path forward. I'm always worried, the cliff edges are often unstable. Here, it is true that a panoramic photo built on at least two floors is essential. As far as the eye can see, hills, cereal fields and a few buildings, certainly industrial pigsties. Serrano ham is very well known all over the world, the more artisanal pata negra is much better in our opinion. Moreover, during one of our visits to the region, a hiker explained to us that when the Spanish marvel at something, they let out an admiring “pata negra”!

Ah, there he is again, our intrepid photographer. Once the shots and assemblies have been carefully prepared, he takes a short break, some biscuits and some fruit juice before heading back to the still sunny hermitage.
In Spain, the center of Catholicism in Europe, pilgrimage sites, calvaries and churches are part of the heritage. They are present in almost all the villages we pass through.

Troglodyte dwellings

Arriving at the top of San Caprasio, nothing special at first sight, a wind to dehorn the oxen, it's not hot. We hesitate to set foot outside. Except that by turning our heads to the right, on the cliff within reach of our sneakers, we see aligned cavities blending into this arid landscape. Without a second thought, we put on our hiking shoes and take a stony path where wild fennel has taken root, mocking this inhospitable soil. A metal ladder facilitates the descent to the caves. They are all closed by a decrepit and rickety wooden door. Inside, small rooms are spartanly furnished.

There are five of them, dug into the rock. The largest is undoubtedly intended for Christian worship with its cross hanging on the wall, the other four seem to be places of accommodation with a table, benches cut on site and mattresses on the floor. We will learn later that ascetics come to meditate there all year round. No soul today, not even that of El Cucaracha, this highwayman, to help us discover the history of the place.

El Cucaracha...

Eh yes ! Los Monegros also has its legend. It appears that a certain Mariano Gavín Sueñén was active in the region, hiding in one of its habitats for several years. Called "el bandido Cucaracha", not because he danced wildly under the influence of marijuana, another definition of cucaracha, but because he was dressed in black from head to toe, reminiscent of a cockroach.

On the way back, a strategically positioned wooden bench invites us to contemplate. The landscape is already colored orange-yellow. Comfortably installed, facing this quiet and preserved expanse, I tell Jean-Paul the story of this shepherd who became a bandit through the circumstances of life. El Cucaracha was born in 1838 in Alcubierre, a small village a few kilometers from here. Passionate about stealth hunting, he extorted and stole from the richest for the benefit of the poorest. It is the Aragonese Robin Hood, a bit like Sanchicorrota four centuries ago in the desert of Las Bardenas Réales in Navarre.
To fight the increasingly numerous “los bandidos” in this poor region of Aragon, the Guardia Civil even brought troops from Huesca and Zaragoza..

The battles raged in the labyrinth of caves and hiding places without secrets for El Cucaracha and his gang who were undermining the forces of law and order. The story goes that the apothecary of Lanaja betrayed El Cucaracha and his acolytes on February 28, 1875. While the latter were resting quietly in a tavern at the bottom of the village, they were served poisoned wine which was fatal to them.

...becomes a legend

“But you know Jean-Paul”, I said to him boastfully, even when murdered El Cucaracha continues to live through his legend in many novels, films or puppet shows.
It is said that a famous Don Diego, immensely rich and arrogant, lived in Seville in a large house. Despite his wealth, Don Diego is greedy and mean to poor people. One day he is visited by a strange wanderer named Juanito who asks for alms at his door. Disdaining the beggar, Don Diego violently chases him away. Furious, Juanito places a curse on Don Diego, warning him that he will regret his contempt.

Shortly after, Don Diego begins to hear strange noises in his house at night. He is tormented by sounds of grinding and scratching and is convinced that he is haunted by an evil spirit. Despite his efforts to rid himself of the noises, they persist, torturing him night after night. Finally, on the verge of madness, Don Diego decides to consult a wise man who reveals to him that the noises are caused by El Cucaracha, a spirit of vengeance sent by Juanito to punish him for his cruelty towards the poor. Desperate, Don Diego seeks to repent of his sins and make amends and good around him.

It's the crunching sound of migrating storks in mid-flight that takes me out of my story and brings me back to reality. We must leave this place already, but what will we do tomorrow?
Perhaps, weather permitting, we will stay in the desert and take you on the mysterious and fascinating Jubierre road.

To find out, follow us in the Flash News on the site's home page to be informed of our next "adventures".

This panoramic tour is now online. We provide the direct link at the end of this article. But be aware that if you plan to use a mobile, you will have minimal functionalities whereas on a tablet, they will be a little more extensive. The computer will remain the ideal device for accessing all the information and navigation icons. Do not hesitate to give us your feedback via our contact form.

Oh, one last clarification; this panoramic tour innovates by integrating explanatory videos from your tour guide, Marie. After several tests, it turns out that a good, even very good Internet connection is really necessary to fully enjoy this tour...

Four languages ​​available: French, English, German, Spanish.
Sorry for the videos, we have not been able to resolve (for now) a technical problem for the subtitling of French videos, but we are working on it.

Note

Our goal is to bring you the luxury of satisfying your curiosity without moving, while immersing you in this unique space with breathtaking reliefs and colors.

See you soon dear visitors.

END

  Visit seen times since the 10/31/2024  

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