Memories of 40 years
Will we go to Norway for two months in June? Like a negative spiral, after the Albarracin episode, a good number of constraints and health problems have since arisen, pushing back our departure a little more each day. We know that this Scandinavian country, very popular with tourists in the summer, should be visited in the spring. Jean-Paul piques my curiosity by telling me about his memories from over forty years ago. A seasonal worker at the time, he worked as a farm laborer on farms, including that of Irène and Svein in Hobøl, near Oslo, then when the winter season came, he would take to the road again for the countries of southern Europe. Crete was his favorite.
This is how we set off on the path of memories with people like Irène, Liv, Sean and Bernt, Svein having left us a year too early. For me, Norway is the land of fjords and vast expanses of tundra, bordered by taiga, boreal forests.
Good conscience undermined
I had seen reports on cruise ships and imagined myself sailing among the waves and icebergs, except that my various readings dissuaded me; this mode of transport is known to be very polluting... I am turning a blind eye because by towing Roulotte we have a significant carbon impact, greater than an ordinary vehicle. Oslo is about 2,400 km from Perpignan and we will consume fuel, emit greenhouse gases, and particles.
The preparations!
Before leaving, we do some basic research on the country, listening to feedback in various vlogs and looking through tourist guides. In general, we rely more on our instincts and do little planning for our trips. I will only mention my experiences and feelings in my articles.
Regarding the budget, 2,000 euros per month will be spent on the trip. This sum, which is more than enough to live in Spain, might not be enough in Norway. We take the precaution of filling two large canteens with everyday consumer products such as muesli and the essential biscuits for the gentleman, chocolate for the lady, soya, rice, compotes, cereal pancakes... Around 500 euros of groceries. Green salads and dairy products will be bought on site.
According to Jean-Paul, fishing and the fish-filled waters of Norway will complete the ordinary. He is also licking his lips at the idea of rediscovering the flavors of the traditional Gudbrandsdalsost, a caramel-colored Norwegian cheese made with goat's milk. As for equipment, we will take walking shoes, boots, a fishing rod and light, warm clothes for 3 months of travel, underwear to last three weeks. We will not escape the chores of laundry.
The D day
It's a rush with all these preparations, tensions are at their peak, a grain of sand in the cogs and everything goes up in flames. Are the 10 five-litre water bottles filled? Are the gas bottles and cans under the bed properly secured? Is the solar panel on the roof of the vehicle securely strapped? Do we have all the medication for 3 months? It's not easy to have them all for such a long period. The pharmacist asks us to sign a sworn statement. Formalities that we didn't imagine having to do before our departure. In gloomy weather, on June 14, at 10:00 a.m., we set off on the A9 with apprehension, as the traffic is so dense on this motorway. Our goal is to reach Auvergne before nightfall.
Everything has to start again!
Very quickly, a dull bang prevents us from hearing each other, it comes from the roof of the Duster and this from 90km/hour. Our nerves are on edge with this unbearable noise! We have to face the facts and put the solar panel in the trunk of the car... yes, but where? Here we are emptying the vehicle on the motorway service area, like real vagabonds trying to "optimize" the spaces, something we do not know how to do! We can finally get back on the "grand ruban" with more calm. This toll section crossed we hurry to turn off towards the A75, much more beautiful and quiet for us.
After a few quick snapshots of the Millau Viaduct, we arrive in the Gévaudan region. The legend of the Forgotten Beast, we leave the main roads to treat ourselves to a first night of wild camping. We find a wasteland among the plots intended for livestock farming. Old stone walls, beautifully aligned, are caressed by the wind and the bright yellow flowers of the broom. The cows and their young are still there when we wake up; we regretfully leave this bucolic landscape at 7:00 a.m. and continue north.
D 2 - A route of bridges
With a temperature of 12 degrees on the thermometer, the break at the Garabit viaduct will be short-lived. We travel 438 km further and reach the territory of the Côte d'Or, so called thanks to the many vineyards colored with ochre and orange-yellow in the fall.
It is not far from 5:00 p.m., it is time to unhitch Roulotte and set off in search of our haven of peace for a second night in "the green". Jean-Paul follows his intuition and takes a steep track, deserted by any habitation when, suddenly, a vehicle arrives in the opposite direction. The man, alone in his van, asks us where we are going. We explain to him that we are looking for a little corner, far from the hustle and bustle to sleep. It is then that he kindly offers to accommodate us with Roulotte in his hangar with the added bonus of electricity and toilets.
We are pleased to receive this invitation, especially since we left, there has been a lack of sun to recharge our batteries.
A beautiful meeting
Our host is the mayor of the village and also a breeder. Nine hunting dogs sniff us out from afar and bark at the intruders that we are, no doubt, they fiercely guard their territory. Fortunately they are tied up. I prefer the company of cows and get closer to them. I learn that they are in free stalls and benefit from a beautiful straw-lined space with their calves where they rest and feed whenever they want.
Traveling is also discovering unknown worlds. Laurent didn't want anything in exchange. I offer him a bag of wild pepper from Madagascar, a modest gift given the kindness of this local boy. I know he will love this tasty condiment for grills, but also for infusions in purees and other dishes. He may keep a memory of these two oddballs who came by chance with a small caravan to his property at the end of the world.
The sun is still sulking
We leave the farm around 9:00 am for a third day of driving. It is in Meurthe-et-Moselle, on the motorway, at the Luxembourg border that our journey takes a completely different turn, undermining our good mood and our motivation to cover the remaining 1500 km to Oslo.