Norway, a monarchy
After a third night spent in a Roulotte at our host's in Hobøl, we headed for Moss in the pouring rain at 9:30 am on June 22. This small town of 50,000 inhabitants, 40 km from Oslo, was the birthplace of Irene 84 years ago.
A beautiful Tesla, like many others seen in the region, swallows up the wide strips of asphalt. I scan the landscape from the back, on the lookout for curiosities, but in vain, drops of water bead on the windows of the vehicle, a thick mist envelops us. We feel like we are alone in the world and take the opportunity to learn a little more about the history of the country. I learn from Irene that Norway gained its full independence in 1905 following the dissolution of the joint Swedish-Norwegian monarchy. It was at this time that a referendum was held. The Norwegians preferred royalty to the Republic. Prince Charles of Denmark was called to the throne and agreed to wear the crown of this new country under the reign name Haakon VII.
Norway, a rich country
I understand then why the colours of the Norwegian flag are close to the Danish banner, with the only difference being the blue cross on the white cross. This region, regularly occupied by Denmark and Sweden for centuries, has been the scene of many clan wars. With a rural tradition, focused on fishing, hunting and wood, Norway has developed significantly in less than 60 years thanks to the oil and gas extracted from the North Sea. A sovereign pension fund, "Government Pension Fund-Global", Irene explains to us, receives all the profits from the exploitation of hydrocarbons and reinjects part of them into the local economy.
Faced with its contradictions
In my opinion, this is what explains the standard of living of Norwegians, one of the highest in the world. This constitutional monarchy with a democratic and parliamentary system of government allows the 5.5 million Norwegians to benefit from the wealth of their country. Of course, everything is not so simple, intensive drilling is changing the landscape, not to mention the impact of fossil fuels on the environment. Moreover, voices are being raised, especially against this approach and the greenwashing, or greening, in French, demonstrated by the Norwegian authorities. That said, overall, during our stay, we found a population that was rather consensual with their leaders on these subjects.
Irène followed this dazzling evolution. She knew how to adapt, but remains strongly attached to traditional and family values like most Scandinavians.
Moss will keep its secrets
After a 20-minute drive, we reach Moss, located on the banks of the Oslofjord. Formerly an industrial city, it has become a place where contemporary art gives a second life to disused wastelands. Unfortunately, the bad weather does not allow us to visit the historic districts further.
Jean-Paul, impatient to use his fishing equipment, braves the showers. Sheltered under an umbrella, he decides to tease the fish on the docks of the port. Meanwhile, Irène proudly shows me in the cozy warmth of her childhood home, her typical dress, the bunad, which she has had since she was a young girl, adjusting it over the years.
The Bunad, a traditional Norwegian outfit
Hanging on a hanger, a heavy woolen fabric decorated with brightly colored floral patterns covers a thick linen petticoat. A cotton blouse finely embroidered on the sleeves and neckline, a silk scarf and a beautiful belt complete the ensemble. This traditional outfit, which has become a ceremonial costume, is worn during local festivals, and especially on the national holiday of May 17. It is passed down from generation to generation. There are said to be 450 different patterns depending on the region where you are located.
In the past, it was mothers and grandmothers who sewed and embroidered by the fireside during the long winter months. Today, when they can, future brides and grooms have their bunads made. Specialized tailors offer models that can cost from 5,000 euros to 20,000 euros, depending on the quality of the materials used and the time spent. Often more than a year is needed to make a complete outfit, so technical and numerous are the swirls. "I will give my first granddaughter my dress for her 16th birthday," rejoices Irène. At her words, the door opens, Jean-Paul returns soaked and empty-handed from fishing. He tells me with precision and passion, cursing his equipment, the merciless fight against a magnificent pollack that destroyed his lures and sped off into the open sea. When I thought of his epic tale, I couldn't help but think of Hemingway's novel The Old Man and the Sea!
Midday snack
He quickly dried himself off, all the while grumbling about this sinister fellow, this sea monster that, according to him, weighed at least 3-4kg! Never mind, he still had 57 days to catch up...
It's time to sit down to lunch. Irene has prepared a shrimp dish, toasted bread and mayonnaise for us. In Norway, we eat lightly at lunchtime while dinner is the main meal of the day. It is eaten as a family between 5:00 and 6:00 p.m. Sometimes Norwegians have a last snack around 9:00 p.m.
Once the dishes are put away, we decide to return to Hobøl, frustrated by this capricious weather that makes us miss the visit to Moss; happy all the same, thanks to Irene, to get to know more about this country with its ancestral traditions.
Tomorrow, we plan an excursion to Oslo, an opportunity to spend two days with old friends, Sean and Liv. It seems that the sun is waiting for us there.
To be continued in the next episode and by following us in the Flash News on the site's home page.
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