After hoisting the cell into the pickup bed, confer previous episode we are working to bring it down in the following video.

The photo below shows one of the two side boxes already installed.

The box seen from another angle.

Once the two side uprights are secured, the central box can be installed.

This is shown in the video below, where I also explain how to mark the screw locations so that I screw them into the wood and not to the side.

The front part of the box is placed.

In the following photo, the insulation floor is finished. It is made of 5mm thick plywood to keep the structure as light as possible. This is possible because the insulation is very light, and it's not the plywood that does the work, but the frame that supports it.

You can see the 12V LED strip in place at the front.

In the photo below, I have placed the support brackets that will be used for the crutches when we want to place or remove the camper in the pickup bed.

Now I'm going to grind down some of the brackets because they're too long.

Once they're cut to the right length, I file them to remove any burrs and avoid the risk of accidental cuts.

The following photo offers another view of the cabover box with the support brackets.

In the following video, the installation of the 20mm-thick insulation is complete.

I'm working on securing the 5mm-thick subfloor, the one just below the joists I'll install next, which will house the final floor of our bed.

Photo of the 5mm thick subfloor before the joists were installed.

The following video shows the installation of the joists. The joists have a cross-section of 32x70mm.

Photo of the joists permanently secured with a 33cm spacing. Note that the LED strip's electrical cable is pulled through the insulation lining.

The joists reinforce the strength of the insulated subfloor. The side walls are also insulated.

The video below poses a crucial question...
It shows the rear support brackets being fixed and adjusted like the front ones.

In the following view, we see that the work is hard but that it is done with love, despite the crushing heat which forces us to drink perhaps more than is reasonable... especially Marie!

Now we've removed the roof panels (which will be retractable) and are wondering about the feasibility of our three-story living room.

Thanks to some carefully arranged flower pots, we're perfectly able to imagine our future living room!

The lowest pots will be floor number 2, the one that will cover the batteries, and on which we'll rest our feet when we're sitting at the dinette.

The highest pots will be where we'll rest our bottoms, always when we're at the dinette.

Floor number 3 is our bed.

View of floor number 3, the one for our bed, which will be 140x190cm and will be fixed at 4/5. The current floor measures 155x160cm. We planned for the remaining 30cm of the length to be adjustable or not, so that we can read or watch a video lying in bed, "just like at home"!

In the photo below, we're testing the placement of the bed base, just half of it to start with, and checking the heights with a future 8cm foam mattress.
Normally, with a roof that will be raised 60cm, we should be able to read comfortably in bed, and not experience that horrible feeling that all the undead experience when stuck at the bottom of a sarcophagus!

The following photos show our leak tests on clean and gray water.

Despite using oakum and brass, these tests, three in all, proved faulty due to my tendency to overtighten, causing the rubber seal (it was originally plastic!) to crush and deform, resulting in not a real, characteristic leak, but a slight seepage that was only noticed after several hours of testing.

Finally, a final test, after many moments of exasperation, proved conclusive.
No more seepage, even after several hours of testing, phew!
The solution was to not crush the seals too much, at least not to the limit of deformation.

We opted for a 100-liter tank for fresh water, and a 35-liter tank for gray water.
Note that the gray water will be stored indoors, under the sink, and will therefore be protected from frost.

Now that we've reviewed what our "living room," our bed, and the water tank will be like, we've decided to stop using the tarp to cover the VroomVroom! at the end of each day.

So, we're tackling the most sensitive part of this adventure, in our opinion: the roof!

For this, we've decided, after much deliberation, to build the roof with 15mm plywood sheets, coated with tung oil on the outside, then to add smooth 5/10 sheet metal on top of the 6m² of this roof.

A 32x70mm chestnut frame will surround it and hold everything together.

Note in the view below that the rear panels are installed, as well as the pigtails that will be used for lashing.

In addition, all the support brackets, as well as all the hardware, have been rustproofed by Marie.

In the video below, I apply silicone to the grout joints and explain the usefulness of using undiluted dish soap to smooth the joints without getting it on your hands or clothes.

While I'm working, Marie is inside the VroomVroom! and, due to a clumsy move, finds herself quite embarrassed.

Obviously, I'll be the main culprit for her disappointment!

Afterwards, you'll witness a friendly verbal sparring match, which Marie will ask you to decide in her favor...
It goes without saying that I strongly oppose this and invite you to do the opposite!

In the next episode, we will continue the construction of the roof, with the installation of the insulation, the ceiling and probably the skylight.
So see you soon ;-)